Labeling objects

 Marking an object, usually with an accession number, provides a link between the object and the information about it.  All museums and archives label their material so the link to the provenance (history) or provenience (origin) of the object or collection is maintained.  Obviously there are ways to do this that limit the damage to the object.  Again remember anything done to an object must be reversible.  I’ll only cover a few of the types of objects and how to label without damage. 

Photographs – Labeling photographs with the date and people and places is a pretty common practice.  Unfortunately many people write on the photograph or on the back with a ballpoint pen. That makes the photograph most unhappy - not reversible and very damaging.  Leaves indentations and chemically active ink.  The best way is to mark photographs on the back with a graphite pencil.  These can be found at any art supply or craft store.  Graphite will write on the back of photographs even if they are shiny photo paper. (It can smudge so don’t rub it.) Usually museums and archives will mark an accession number on the back in a corner of the photograph.  As noted above the accession number links to an inventory with information about the photograph.  Another way to mark photographs (again in an unobtrusive corner on the back) is with a pen containing India ink, which is inert and will not damage the photograph.  The problem with using a pen is the issue of reversibility.   In some instances the sleeve used for storage can be labeled instead of the photograph.  For scanned images, the metadata provides the information about the photograph.

Paper – Usually the file folder is marked in pencil or with acid free typed labels, but if a paper is to be marked you need to use a 2B pencil and find an unobtrusive corner usually on the back. Using library labels common on books and magazines is a no-no.  It's not reversible and the glue is acidic. If the paper is sleeved then the identification can be written onto the sleeve instead of the paper.   

Objects – Archives have objects too.  These also should be marked following the standards set by museums.  (Archaeologists also mark objects to link to excavation information and they should follow museum standards too.)  The accepted way is to use a substance called Paraloid B-72 which is inert and looks like clear nail polish.  You can also get a white variety to use on darker objects after first coating the spot for the label with Paraloid B-72.  The labeling number is written with India ink.  Once this has dried it is covered with another thin layer of Paraloid B-72

Textiles – If the textile must be labeled, a label made of cotton or linen is sewn in an unobtrusive place.  I use the cotton tape sold at sewing stores. Remember it must be material that has no chemicals, not manmade fabric. I sew it on with cotton thread.  Again the numbering is in India ink.  Be careful to use a pen that it doesn’t run on the label.  Most archival supply companies like Gaylord have the supplies one needs.

The web offers numerous explanations of labeling – probably more clearly than I just did.  Here are some examples:

http://sharemuseumseast.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Labelling_and_Marking_booklet.pdf

  (The British have the best training for conservators.)

http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/pdf/preservation/A_Simple_Guide_to_Lablling_Museum_Objects.pdf  ( good illustrative examples)

http://www.nps.gov/museum/publications/conserveogram/01-04.pdf

http://www.mnhs.org/about/publications/techtalk/TechTalkMay2000.pdf

Paper Preservation Continued

         In previous blog posts I’ve talked about the main causative factors in paper deterioration – at least the causes that we can control to some degree. The ones we talked about are dust and dirt, pests, light, uncontrolled changes in temperature and humidity.  Even an individual can mitigate paper deterioration by being aware of these causes..  Archives have even more control although some are better at it than others.  Having adequate funding and administrative support helps.

         Anyway there are some other variables leading to deterioration.  One particular destructive agent is people.  We can tear paper, leave marks on it, dog ear the corners, fold it.  If our hands aren’t clean, and even if they are, we can leave oil residue on paper. Some simple rules can help mitigate the damage human handling can cause.  Mostly this relates to archives and museums, but some rules are relevant to paper handling at home too.

         The most important rule in dealing with collections I’ve mentioned before I think.  Nothing should be done to any object including paper that is not reversible.  The rest of the rules arise from that one overarching concern.

 

Fragile envelope from the Sayles Collection, Rupert Richardson Research Center for the Southwest,
Hardin-Simmons University, Abilene, Texas

1.     Most common in a rules list is that only pencils are allowed in the reading room.  Even if you are careful, you could leave stray, non-removable marks if you use an ink pen.  Of course now with computers, that is less of an issue, but sometimes you have to make notes on paper or the staff does.  Do it in pencil.

2.     No food or drink around collections.  Even if you are careful you can get some of your peanut butter sandwich or spill your drink by accident onto the collection you are studying.  Not good.  Most archives don’t allow food or drink in their reading rooms.  Some limit drinks to water.  Nothing around collections is best.  Take a break and go eat somewhere else because accidents happen no matter how careful you are.

3.     The information on valuable and rare papers can be copied or scanned so that the original isn’t subjected to extensive use.  For most research it is the information that is important for study so a copy is all that is needed. 

4.     Many places require the use of clean white gloves when handling some types of objects – photographs, for instance.  This can be a little controversial because using gloves reduces your fine motor movements. Personally I use gloves for photographs and other paper that is thicker, but if I’m going to cause more damage trying to pick up paper with gloves on, I take them off.  Just remember if whatever you are touching is important or valuable, wash your hands first.

5.     Archives generally use plastic paper clips, not metal ones.  Metal paperclips and staples can rust over time.  When encountered most archives will replace the clips although this activity is changing.  If the goal is to have the collection accessible to the public fast than replacing paperclips is not always done.  I do replace them, but I generally leave staples alone unless they are quite rusty and easy to remove.

6.     Large items or even small fragile ones should be carried on a support, not by the paper itself.  Always use two hands.  Large items may require two people or a cart just to avoid any chance of damage.

7.     Archives never, ever use scotchtape or masking tape or any other tape for repair of tears.  Most adhesives have chemicals, acid based usually.  Repair is the work of a trained person usually a paper conservator.  Remember don’t do anything that can’t be reversed. Often it’s better to do nothing.

  Next time we’ll talk about the one time that you can mark paper or other objects and how to do it.